MONTEREY PENINSULA

Morning: Start with the Fog

Begin at Alvarado Street Brewery & Grill in Monterey for breakfast—locals pack this place for their breakfast burritos and house-roasted coffee. Or head to First Awakenings in Pacific Grove for massive portions and a line of regulars who've been coming for decades.

If you're near Carmel, Cultura Comida y Bebida does an excellent breakfast, and Carmel Belle has pastries worth the early wake-up call.

Mid-Morning: Coast Without the Crowds

Skip the paid 17-Mile Drive and take the free, equally stunning Ocean View Boulevard through Pacific Grove instead. Pull over at:

• Lovers Point Park—tide pools, harbor seals, and views without the Pebble Beach price tag

• Asilomar State Beach—boardwalk through the dunes, crashing waves, and that iconic Monterey cypress-lined coast

• Point Pinos Lighthouse—the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the West Coast, and you can actually go inside

For a proper hike, the Point Lobos State Natural Reserve south of Carmel is California's crown jewel—cypress groves, turquoise coves, sea lions barking from offshore rocks. Get there early; locals know it fills up fast.

Lunch: Ocean Views, Local Vibes

• Passionfish in Pacific Grove—sustainable seafood, locals' favorite, reservations recommended

• The Bench in Pebble Beach—yes, it's at Pebble Beach, but the casual sister to the fancy restaurants serves excellent fish tacos and chowder with those famous fairway views

• Big Sur Bakery—if you're willing to drive 30 minutes south, this is worth it for wood-fired pizzas and pastries in a rustic cabin setting

• Mundaka in Carmel—Spanish tapas with a California sensibility, intimate and excellent

Afternoon: Carmel's Secret Side

Carmel-by-the-Sea is touristy, but locals know how to navigate it:

• Walk Scenic Road from Carmel Beach down to the rocky coves—stop at the white sand beach, watch surfers at Carmel River State Beach

• Browse the hidden courtyards and passages between Ocean and 7th Avenues—there are dozens of tucked-away galleries and shops that tourists walk right past

• Earthbound Farm's Farm Stand in Carmel Valley—organic produce, lavender fields, and prepared foods for impromptu picnics

Wine Without Napa Prices:

The Carmel Valley is Monterey's wine country, and it's criminally underrated:

• Bernardus Winery—serious wines, beautiful grounds, and their tasting room feels like a private estate

• Folktale Winery—bocce courts, live music, food trucks, and a vibe that says "stay a while"

• Heller Estate Organic Vineyards—sculptures in the vineyard, organic farming, and sweeping valley views

Late Afternoon: The Drive North

Head up Highway 1 toward Half Moon Bay—this is one of California's most iconic coastal drives. Stop at:

• Pigeon Point Lighthouse—towering white beacon, dramatic cliffs, and tide pools below

• Año Nuevo State Park—elephant seal colony (winter months are best for breeding season)

• Pescadero for a detour to Duarte's Tavern (legendary artichoke soup and olallieberry pie) or Arcangeli Grocery (garlic herb bread that locals drive an hour for)

Evening: Half Moon Bay Elegance

Arrive at The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay as the sun begins its descent. Perched on coastal bluffs with the Pacific stretching endlessly before you, this is where rugged California coastline meets refined luxury. The property sits on 16 oceanfront acres, and even if you're not staying the night, the experience is worth it.

Dining options at The Ritz:

• Navio—their coastal California cuisine with floor-to-ceiling ocean views makes sunset reservations essential. The menu changes with the seasons, but the view is constant drama.

• ENO Wine Bar—for something more casual, small plates, local wines, and fire pits on the terrace where you can watch the fog roll in

• The Ocean Terrace—breakfast or lunch here feels like dining at the edge of the world

After dinner, walk the Coastal Trail that winds through the property—the sound of waves crashing against the bluffs below, the smell of eucalyptus and ocean spray, and if you're lucky, a sky full of stars once the coastal fog clears.

Where to Stay:

• The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay—the splurge, but those bluff-top views and the morning coffee on your balcony watching dolphins

• Sanctuary Beach Resort in Marina—modern, coastal-chic, right on the dunes

• Hofsas House in Carmel—Bavarian-style inn with a pool, family-run for 75 years

• Pacific Grove Inn—Victorian charm, walkable to everything, and locals actually recommend it

• Tickle Pink Inn in Carmel Highlands—perched on cliffs, intimate, spectacular views

Dinner Alternatives (If Not at The Ritz):

• Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur—if you're willing to drive south, this is one of California's most breathtaking dining experiences

• Taste Morgan in Seaside—farm-to-table, ever-changing menu, locals' secret

• Cantinetta Luca in Carmel—Italian comfort food, excellent wine list, cozy and unpretentious

• Crystal Fish in Monterey—sushi and Japanese small plates, locals line up

Wildcard: The Moss Landing Detour

Between Monterey and Half Moon Bay, stop at Moss Landing—a working fishing harbor that feels like time forgot it. Rent kayaks from Monterey Bay Kayaks and paddle the sloughs (sea otters everywhere), grab clam chowder from Phil's Fish Market (the real deal, not the tourist version), and watch pelicans dive-bomb for fish from the harbor. It's unglamorous and perfect.

Another Wildcard: Big Sur Sunrise

If you're truly ambitious, wake before dawn and drive south to Big Sur for sunrise at Bixby Bridge or McWay Falls. The crowds don't arrive until 10 am, and having those iconic vistas to yourself—fog lifting off the cliffs, golden light hitting the Pacific—is worth the early alarm. Grab coffee and pastries at Big Sur Bakery afterward and feel like you've unlocked a secret level of California.